‘A Michelin starred Gastronomical Experience to Cherish’ in L’Espana’s Culinary Capital, in SAN SEBASTIAN, the PAYS BASQUE, SPAIN!
The BASQUE COUNTRY aka PAYS BASQUE is the name given to the home of the Basque people in the western Pyrenees that straddles the border between France and Spain on the Atlantic coast. Euskal Herria is the oldest documented Basque name for the area they inhabit, dating to the 16th century.
The PAYS BASQUE (Basque Country) comprises the Autonomous Communities of the Basque Country and Navarre in Spain and the Northern Basque Country in France. The Basque people are very proud of their unique identity and heritage and there have been movements to break away from Spain and form their independent nation which have not succeeded thus far!
Among other things, the Basque Country, especially SAN SEBASTIAN and BILBAO have become synonymous with culinary excellence globally, and are destinations of choice of our very own ANTHONY BOURDAIN, for whom it is rumored that every Michelin starred restaurant has a special table reserved in case he shows up to surprise them on a whim!
SAN SEBASTIAN is easily one of the ‘Culinary Capitals’ of Spain, Europe, and the free world as we know it. The small Basque city of 186,00 people with its elegant Belle Époque architecture has more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else in the world. Not only that, but it is home to two restaurants in the top 20 of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants – ARZAK and MUGARITZ– with two more, ASADOR ETXEBARRI and AZURMENDI within close proximity.
But what makes SAN SEBASTIAN (or DONOSTIA as it is known in the Basque language) especially appealing to the gourmet traveler is the quality of the everyday food, in particular the hundreds of PINTXOS bars, simple drinking dens selling everything from traditional rustic snacks to high-end gourmet dishes in small portions – and at prices that do not break the bank!
Given the incorrigible and insufferable foodie that I am (I have been known to travel all the way from Dallas to Germany, to have authentic Parsi style Dhansak at the Taj Mahal in Frankfurt and Heidelberg!), our vacation in Spain was a God given opportunity to sample the exquisite cuisine of SAN SEBASTIAN, so a pilgrimage to this destination of culinary excellence was an imperative, not an option for consideration! We actually took a 6 hour train journey from BARCELONA to SAN SEBASTIAN and back, to experience the gastronomical magic that has been unleashed by the tribe of Spain’s finest chefs who congregate in this quaint little town to deploy their culinary skills against the best of their peers, and in the process transcend to new levels of excellence bringing with it the halo of ‘Gastronomical Rockstars’ that is prized and richly rewarded with fame and fortune!
Despite reserving almost 2 months in advance, we succeeded in securing a reservation at the Michelin starred KOKOTXA (which has retained its Michelin star for 11 years in a row, with 12 tables in a classic European setting that was completely unpretentious!) founded by celebrity chef DANI LOPEZ and managed by maître ESTELA VELASCO. ESTELA, who personifies charm and savoir-faire personally looked after us and ensured that we had an experience we would savor and cherish for a long, long time to come!
From the ‘hors-d-oeuvre-on-the house’ of ONION SOUP served with mini muffin with fried baby prawns followed by the KIMCHI CRUSTED CRAB the indulged our palates with the flavor of the Kimchi with a crispy softshell crab, with the pungency tempered by the yogurt and tapioca, it was a totally relaxed evening of indulgence of the senses, in the company of fellow Bon Vivants and hedonists from all around the Globe (Canada, France, Greece, Japan, Luxembourg, Italy, Spain and the US of A!).
For the entrees, we ordered 3 different varieties of seafood (see photos below) and our adventure was suitably rewarded with gratification par excellence! From the TURBOT served with the traditional GAZPACHUELO with a fresh green beans and Chinese mushrooms glaze, to the MONK FISH served with red cabbage, peanuts and bones emulsion and the SEA BASS served with a avocado, daikon and lime glaze, this was culinary art that undulated in front of our eyes, that was as flavorful to imbibe as it was beautiful to behold!
The Piece-de-Resistance was unveiled in the form ambrosia (food for the Gods) that indulged our palates with flavors that were to die for (see photos below)! The homemade BRIOCHE CARAMELIZED FRENCH TOAST, pumpkin and spiced caramel ice cream was suitably complemented by the CRUNCHY LICORICE LAYERED CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE with MANGO, which were sublime and like nothing we have experienced before!
The subtle, delicate, yet oh so sophisticated flavors and aromas delivered as culinary art on platters that you are tempted to preserve in your showcase, which stimulate and dare your taste buds and palate into surrender and submission, delivered with exceptional customer service that tends to your every need – this was truly a humbling and one of our finest gastronomical experiences on this planet we will cherish for a long, long time to come!
So where do we go from SAN SEBASTIAN on our next trip to SPAIN for our next level gastronomical expedition? We aspire to head out to BILBAO on our next vacation in SPAIN, the biggest city in the PAYS BASQUE, that is the home of MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY, which is spearheading to the transformation of traditional European, Japanese, and Indian culinary styles, and has inspired novel concepts and establishments like the FARZI CAFÉ, MASALA LIBRARY and the World’s most celebrated Indian Chef GAGAN ANAND, whose restaurant in BANGKOK has been recognized as the ‘Finest Indian Restaurant in the World!
On our gastronomical roadmap is the celebrated EL BULLI Restaurant in BILBAO, founded by living legend FERRAN ADRIA (ANTHONY BOURDAIN is a huge fan!), who is widely revered across the globe as the father of ‘COCINA DE VANGUARDIA’ which the world celebrates as ‘MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY’, and has inspired the likes of GAGAN ANAND and ZORAWAR KALRA!
So what is MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY*? Molecular Gastronomy blends physics and chemistry to transform the tastes and textures of food. The result? New and innovative dining experiences. The term Molecular Gastronomy is commonly used to describe a style of cuisine in which chefs explore culinary possibilities by borrowing tools from the science lab and ingredients from the food industry. Formally, the term molecular gastronomy refers to the scientific discipline that studies the physical and chemical processes that occur while cooking. Molecular gastronomy seeks to investigate and explain the chemical reasons behind the transformation of ingredients, as well as the social, artistic and technical components of culinary and gastronomic phenomena. Cocktails in ice spheres. Caviar made of olive oil. Disappearing transparent raviolis. Well these are all examples of Molecular Gastronomy!
The entrance to the Michelin starred KOKOTXA (which has retained its Michelin star for 11 years in a row, with 12 tables in a classic European setting that was completely unpretentious!) founded by celebrity chef DANI LOPEZ and managed by maître ESTELA VELASCO. ESTELA, who personifies charm and savoir-faire personally looked after us and ensured that we had an experience we would savor and cherish for a long, long time to come!
We actually did a 6-hour train journey from Barcelona to San Sebastian for our Michelin starred culinary expedition! The opportunities to embark on fun Train journeys is one of the great joys of traveling across Europe and we look for every opportunity to make this happen since it invokes fond and indelible memories of train journeys across India when we were kids!
Sanchita comfortably ensconced in at the Kokotxa, in anticipation of the gastronomical adventure about to undulate!:-)
The bread sticks served up with a flavorful Turmeric mayonnaise emulsion was an awesome way to commence the adventure!
The ‘hors-d-oeuvre-on-the house’ comprising ONION SOUP served with a muffin with fried baby prawns, which was sublime! The flaky, homemade bread imbibed with the locally produced extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar was a treat and served to alleviate our hunger!:-)
The KIMCHI CRUSTED CRAB which indulged our palates with the flavor of the Kimchi with a crispy softshell crab, with the pungency tempered by the yogurt and tapioca- that is Michelin starred culinary excellence for you!
I had the SEA BASS served with an avocado, daikon and lime glaze, this was culinary art that undulated in front of my eyes – loved it!
The MONK FISH served with red cabbage, peanuts and bones emulsion, which truly tempted me – wished I had ordered it myself!:-)
The TURBOT served with the traditional GAZPACHUELO with fresh green beans and Chinese mushrooms glaze, was sumptuous and had my daughter in peals of delight!
The homemade BRIOCHE CARAMELIZED FRENCH TOAST, pumpkin, and spiced caramel ice cream was sublime and sheer indulgence for the palate!
The CRUNCHY LICORICE LAYERED CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE with MANGO, delivered an explosion of flavors, suitably complimenting the brioche!
The subtle, delicate, yet oh so sophisticated flavors and aromas delivered as culinary art on platters that you are tempted to preserve in your showcase, which stimulate and dare your taste buds and palate into surrender and submission, delivered with exceptional customer service that tends to your every need – this was truly a humbling and one of our finest gastronomical experiences on this planet we will cherish for a long, long time to come!